This pack is a didactic supply kit designed with Sandra Maciak Hélias, teacher at Artesane, for the preparation of Module 4 | CAP Tailleur: the jacket assembled in a traditional manner. It brings together all the technical materials for making the jacket. The fabric is not included in the kit.
All the supplies included in the pack will be cut to the yardage specified below.
The composition of the CAP Tailleur kit: the traditional jacket
- 80 cm of sleeve lining (blue colour - 150 cm usable width)
- 1 metre of wool canvas (lightweight hair canvas - 75cm usable width)
- 1 piece 50 cm by 75 cm of tailor's wadding / felt (white colour)
- 50 cm of collar canvas (soft – 50 cm usable width)
- 1 metre of buckram (grey colour – 70 cm usable width)
- 50 cm of percale for pocket bag (navy blue colour – 150 cm usable width)
- 5 metres of tight-weave stay tape (white colour)
- 20 cm of under-collar felt (grey colour – 90 cm usable width)
- a pair of shoulder pads for women (white)
WARNING the chest piece is not included in the kit, as our chest piece is stiffer than the one Sandra uses in the course.
Usage advice
This advice is oriented towards good professional practice and the implementation of traditional interfacing techniques:
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Material preparation: Natural fibre interfacings (notably the wool canvas) must be shrunk (pre-shrunk) with steam before cutting to stabilise the structure and prevent any later deformation of the garment.
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Wool canvas: It is fundamental for reinforcing the front and the chest. Its assembly must be done using specific basting and pad stitching to ensure the suppleness and hold of the roll line of the lapel.
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Buckram: This rigid material is traditionally reserved for supporting pockets or targeted reinforcement of skirt hems and jacket hems, while taking care not to denature it with excessive heat.
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Sleeve lining: This technical lining fabric is used for lining the sleeves.
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Collar canvas and under-collar felt: These components are required for the traditional construction of the pad-stitched collar, requiring precise construction of the collar canvas to master the break line.
Additional information
Storage: The materials must be stored flat (not rolled or tightly folded), in a dry and temperate environment. It is imperative to protect the buckram and the felt/wadding from humidity, which could alter the stiffness of their stiffener or their volume.
Care advice
Professional dry cleaning is the imperative method for the finished garment in order to preserve the integrity and the layering of the sewn interfacings. Do not wash or soak the unassembled interfacings individually.
The application of heat (pressing) on the structured garment must be carried out professionally (high-pressure steam and wooden clapper) to set the line without crushing the volume of the internal interfacings.
Additional note
The kit is sold individually. The photographs shown on the product sheet are not contractual and may vary slightly depending on the arrivals (shade variations of natural materials). This pack is reserved for the educational use of students of the Artesane CAP tailleur programme
If you have the slightest doubt or the slightest question, please do not hesitate to contact us via messenger, by email at contact@mercereie-atelier.fr or by telephone on 09 78 81 68 74
